At Boston’s Babbo, Batali’s fame is beside the point

Jun 12, 2015 1211

By Devra First

There are a lot of things I expected to write about when reviewing Babbo Pizzeria e Enoteca, celebrity chef Mario Batali's 8,700-square-foot restaurant on the South Boston waterfront. Whether the pizza is good. It is! Except when it's not.

One of the most mysterious features of Babbo Pizzeria is its inability to produce consistent pizza. You know how it goes. You pull your pie in close, ready for action. Then it happens: Slice slump. Crust collapse. Dough dysfunction. 

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