A quick glance across the room and it looks as if Al Pacino is standing in front of a map of Italy's Piedmont region, pointing to the unique hillside vineyards where some of the world's most majestic and monolithic wines are made.

The Italian's hair is longish, tousled, salt-and-pepper, the same as his scraggly beard. His face is warm, inviting and weathered. When I finally do meet La Spinetta winemaker Girogio Rivetti, I tell him -- with all rispetto -- about his resemblance to the great American actor. Rivetti smiles broadly and shows me his hands.