In his 35 years at the helm of Gotham Bar & Grill, Alfred Portale was honored with multiple three-star reviews, James Beard awards and Michelin stars for elevating the art of American cooking — sometimes literally; towering presentations became his trademark.

But he was ready to shift gears. He recently left the kitchen at Gotham, where he remains a partner, to launch Portale, in Flatiron. Its sleek, 114-seat dining room and bar have been packed since the place opened in November, and its hearty, unfussy dishes taste as good as they look.