Il Mulino is like the Italian version of the Hillstone Group of restaurants. Big, expensive, efficient, and very good. It has numerous locations in New York City and on Long Island, along with outposts in Orlando (Disney World), Atlanta, San Juan, Las Vegas, Tokyo, and now Wainscott.

This big, beautiful Tudor house on Georgica Pond has seen many restaurant incarnations over the years: Sapore di Mare, Maya’s, Saracen, Georgica, Osteria Salinia. The interior is now creamy whites with wood and tile floors, several dining rooms, and a beautiful enclosed porch overlooking the pond. This room has superbly soundproofed windows. You would never know you are on the highway. There is now a wood-burning oven for pizzas, but this was not yet operational on our visit.