by Michael Kaminer

This nonna's got balls. They're palle di joe ($14), beef testicles that are sliced, baked in oil and vinegar, and served on greens. I didn't have cojones to try them at Enoteca Maria, the Staten Island joint that's become a sensation for its rotating cast of grandmas in the kitchen.

But almost everything I tasted made it clear why this place has won an army of fans — and spawned a splashy new cookbook. Enoteca Maria's comfort food makes up in soul and abbondanza what it might lack in color. Nonna Adelina — from Napoli — was in charge on my visits. But I'd bet some of the menu wasn't her doing.

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Source: http://www.nydailynews.com/