New York has more than its share of posh, high-end Italian restaurants, but Felice 56 is the first of real significance since Lincoln Ristorante at Lincoln Center opened ten years ago. (Last year’s Leoni made an attempt in décor, but the food fell well short.)

Indeed, Felice 56, has overcome the problems of a subterranean, windowless space that used to house a dreary David Chang restaurant through congenial lighting, the drama of high ceilings and a gorgeous landscape mural, making this one of the most beautiful new restaurants in the city.