By Steve Cuozzo

You've tried the rest, now try the best — not pizza, which touts its alleged superiority on every box, but chicken parmigiana that only looks like pizza.

What might be called "chicken pizzagiana," a round, 13-inch-diameter replica of a Ray's pie at new Quality Italian, is the summer's runaway whimsical hit — good, clean fun in a season of neo-molecular, quasi-Korean and counterfeit Latin departures.

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