Westchester County has some evocative old train stations, and the 19th-century brick beauty in Mamaroneck is among the loveliest. Unused for travel for years, it opened last October as the setting for Modern on the Rails, a new outpost of the beloved Modern restaurant in New Rochelle.

Enter the restaurant and you will immediately feel a sense of possibility. It is easy to imagine waiting by the grand fireplace for a train's arrival, or scanning the old scheduling boards, still visible behind the bar, for the next express to the city. I am about to go on a culinary adventure, I thought, as I sat down for the first time on one of the restaurant's roomy banquettes.

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Source: http://www.nytimes.com/