When Edwin Onofre gets an order for Italian Combo, he tunes out everything else. He asks the usual questions — “salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar?” “Mayo?” — and then he gets to work … Just enough mayo. Oil and vinegar are applied with a drizzle, not a downpour.

On the slicer, everything is shaved super thin: cappy-style ham, salami, provolone, a final layer of hot capicola. Roasted red peppers, a few slices of tomato, and some shredded lettuce. There is maybe too much meat, but that’s part of the appeal. A sandwich like this is supposed to be a little too heavy.