VINUM Massimo Felici, who owned La Nonna and Ribollita in Manhattan, has now set up a welcoming Italian wine bar and restaurant on Staten Island, a borough that’s not long on such amenities. Without jumping onto the ferry or driving over a bridge or two, local Italophiles can indulge in a collection of meatball plates and small servings of eggplant parm, burrata, shrimp with white beans, and braised tripe. Four salads based on classics like Caesar, table-size platters of cheeses and cured meats, assorted pastas including fresh pappardelle with wild boar, and a few main dishes like a veal chop paved with ham and fontina round out the menu.

A taste of Sicily shows up, with bacalao croquettes, and couscous with cod. In the morning, Mr. Felici, who is the baker as well as the chef, offers fresh breads and pastries with coffee. Lunch includes panini. Grapes from Italy dominate the wine list, with California in second place. Pours are by the glass as well as by the bottle. (Bottles start at $25.) The wood-and-brick-walled setting with a marble bar is invitingly subdued: 704 Bay Street (Broad Street), Stapleton, Staten Island, 718-448-8466, vinumnyc.com.