Although Christmas Eve is when children ’round the world wait for the big guy in red to freefall down the chimney, back in the days of old in Southern Italy, December 24 was a time of commemorative waiting for the birth of Jesus Christ. This more holy vigil, or La Vigilia, was observed by abstaining from meat and indulging in what was plentiful in the mostly poor region: fish.

Today, the Feast of the Seven Fishes, historically starring dried, salted cod, or baccalà, prevails (though much more common among Italians here than in the old country), and Westchester’s seafoodies are giddy over the number of restaurants recognizing the tradition. But, here’s the catch: Reel in a reservation now, or you’ll have to wait until next year.