Just inside the door of Naples Italian specialty foods store Ambrosi & Sons is a prismatic map of Italy’s familiar boot. Flecks of orange represent the foggy northern vineyards where nebbiolo grapes are grown for vintages of Piedmontese Barolo and Barbaresco.

Further south, patches of purple outline the rolling hills of Chianti, heavy with sangiovese vines. More pops of color label dozens of less familiar wines and their regions: sparkling red lambrusco from central Tuscany’s Emilia Romagna, violet-perfumed Lacrima Morro d’Alba from Marche and full-bodied uva di troia from sun-soaked Puglia, to name a few. It’s this last group that shop owner Rudy Ambrosi wants you to uncork and explore.