Ferraro’s Kitchen & Wine Bar is in a former bait and tackle shop on the mainland side of 79th Street. The space was transformed into a modern Italian restaurant with one wall filled with wine bottles, a black polished granite counter with high green chairs and a patio in back with tables shaded by canopies.

It is open with plenty of light from front windows during the day. It feels like the owners’ living room, but with extra tables and more than 300 wine labels priced to be affordable, mostly the best from each region of Italy.