I was a budget backpacker when I toured Italy in a campervan with four girlfriends back in 1998. It wasn’t a culinary experience by any means, but we made sure we had a thousand lira each day for a gelato (and yes, two weeks of that will put on weight even when you’re 22).

But one meal I’ll never ever forget, in fact I can still taste it, was the cheapest margherita pizza from Bari where we waited for our ferry to Athens. I’ve never had a pizza that good before, nor since.