Chef Duke LoCicero has brought the signature Creole-Italian flavors he developed over 26 years at Cafe Giovanni on Decatur Street to a pocket of Metairie that always seems to welcome homestyle fare. Dab’s Bistro occupies the former Cello’s space on a side street near Lakeside Shopping Center, down the block from neighborhood stalwart Impastato’s. Dab’s has a casual feel, with a bar, televisions and several sections for dining.

For appetizers, the seafood cake ($12) had a nicely crusted exterior filled with tender shrimp, crabmeat and crawfish. Meuniere and lemon butter sauce and a ramekin of remoulade added flavor. The namesake eggplant LoCicero ($13) featured fried slices of eggplant drizzled with vodka dill cream sauce and a scattering of shrimp and crawfish.