Owner Jack Santarelli spent a lot of money getting the smell right. At Di Abruzzo Italian Market in Denton, meats and sausages hang in casings above the deli counter, which is full of neat rows of homemade meatballs and butchered cutlets of veal, pork and Angus beef.

On the far end of the counter sits a whole Parmesan wheel, which Santarelli intends to keep just for the aroma. The scent of fresh-baked bread wafts through the kitchen doors, while imported olive oil line the shelves.