The first thing you’ll notice about new Italian restaurant il Modo is how much it doesn’t resemble an Italian restaurant. There’s no Sinatra music wafting through the air, no checkerboard tablecloths. Scan the menu, and instead of spaghetti and meatballs, you’ll find spaghetti made with ricotta cheese, heirloom tomatoes, and basil, with not a drop of tomato sauce or a crumb of a meatball to be found.
Contemporary Italian cuisine served in an environment that defies the usual Italian restaurant trappings is nothing new for Fort Worth — Piattello comes to mind; Piola, too. But our city’s beloved red sauce Italian spots often overshadow edgy newcomers. On the other hand, the mere fact that forward-thinking restaurants like il Modo continue to open in Fort Worth is further evidence of the city’s expanding palate.
