Want to know how the sausage is made? Slide into a seat at Macellaio’s L-shaped counter and ask. The servers are fluent in all manner of Italian-style sausages and cured meats, and they are itching to tell you about the day’s offerings, all made in-house. If your timing is right, you might get to ask the chief sausage geek himself, chef and co-owner David Uygur.

He was probably at work in the open kitchen earlier in the day, happily up to his elbows in herbs and spices, slicing hunks of pork, rinsing sausage casings, feeding the meat grinder, and hanging the plump results in the spacious charcuterie fridge. (I happened to be nearby one evening as the refrigerator door was opened, and I was momentarily transfixed by a subtly spicy, meaty aroma—black pepper and rosemary, garlic and cumin—wafting through the air.)