Pizza’s a family thing for Rick Perna and his sons Nick and Ricky. Dad’s been making pizza for 45 years, a skill he honed in his native Buffalo, New York, before the family opened Capo’s Pizzeria on Broadway just outside the loop four years ago. A second location on Blanco Road north of Bitters Road followed last year.

On the outside, the Broadway shop’s an unremarkable slot in a tan strip mall near the airport. On the inside, it’s a red-and-white checkerboard of tabletops flanked by photos and quotes from movie gangsters and real-life gangsters. Eye-rolling stereotypes or winky New York Italian charm, that’s for you to decide.