by Johnathan L. Wright

Calafuria occupies a renovated bungalow on South Center Street in Midtown (back in the day, it was Rose's sandwiches). The restaurant lies in Midtown, but it's not of Midtown (or at least of Midtown's more annoying aspects). As in: Calafuria doesn't feel derivative, like something someone saw or ate in San Francisco or Portland and decided to bring back to Reno.

Which isn't to say that Calafuria doesn't draw on sources of inspiration. It does — on the cooking of coastal Tuscany and classic Italian trattorie and osterie — but in a way that works in Northern Nevada. The dining room is light and bright and clean-lined. Fresh flowers in small vases garnish the tables. Magee and crew work from an open kitchen. A chalkboard boasts about the breads, made daily using certified organic flour. If you want to go al fresco, there's the front porch or terraces on Calafuria's south side.

Read more

Source: http://www.rgj.com/