The certificate stating Pietro’s Pizza Kauai is a member of the Verace Pizza Napoletana Association is just that, a piece of paper, said Peppe Miele. Which might be a strange description, since Miele is VPN’s president of Canada and U.S. operations. But he explained. A piece of paper doesn’t make pizza. It doesn’t make friends.

“This guy right here,” Miele said, turning to Tom Iannucci and tapping his shoulder. “He does.” Pietro’s Pizza Kauai is VPN’s 633rd member worldwide, one of about 100 in the U.S. and the first in Hawaii.