Seattle’s Starbucks Reserve Roastery & Tasting Room appears to be as popular as ever. It is vast: Fifteen thousand square feet, with a capacity of 497, and what seems like at least that number of patrons swarming throughout the premises on even Seattle’s dreariest winter day.

They drink coffee — espresso, pour-over, cold-brew, more. They take selfies — so many selfies. They browse the goods of the “Handpicked at the Roastery” retail zone, where the “Select supplies for the well appointed” include shirts emblazoned “ESPRESSO YOURSELF.”