When Gina Rollo tells people she’s opening a pizzeria in Sellwood-Moreland, they get concerned. “People say, ‘Why are you opening a pizza place? There are so many pizza places in Sellwood,’” she says, sitting at a table in her future restaurant. “But in New York, there’s a pizza place on every corner. You can never have too much pizza.”

Then again, what Rollo will be serving at her incoming restaurant, Pizzeria Stellina, won’t exactly be ubiquitous in that neighborhood. Excluding the New York slices at A Cena offshoot Sunny’s and the personal pies at the Muddy Rudder, Sellwood’s pizza scene is primarily dominated by chains: Bellagios, Pizzicato, Papa Murphy’s.