A few weeks ago I wrote about “Ten Things That Will Never Get Old About French Bistros,” and was prompted by readers to write the same about bistros’ Italian cousin—the trattoria. First of all, a trattoria is not a ristorante, which is (generally speaking) somewhat higher end, larger and refined, with, of course, higher prices.

The word trattoria comes from the French traiteur as originally applied to medieval cook shops. Trattorias are small eateries with small menus and big flavors. And they don’t go in for anything trendy.  Here are fourteen things about them to love.