It’s a summer Saturday on the Amalfi Coast, and it feels like everyone has come to Positano. Only one street leads up from the harbour through the village, and it’s packed — a long snake of people winding their way up, the swell of the crowd moving as one.
Initially, it’s hardly appealing, to be honest — the reality of overtourism dampening the beauty that brought us all to Positano’s colourful cliffside houses. But there’s a different side to the Amalfi Coast, as I’m discovering: a place of thriving culture, history and dolce vita beyond the Instagram shots. It’s just that, as in any place grappling with its honeypot status, you have to dig a little deeper to find it.
