The Southern Italian region of Puglia has never been at a loss for great food and drink. In the old days, by train, it used to be an overnight slog of six-plus hours from Rome. These days, with smaller air carriers, you can get there in an hour from all over Europe. It is a region that has long been known for its mix of beaches, castles, fantastic seafood and great wines. Food in much of Southern Italy, contradictory to the commonly held belief, tends to be actually much more vegetable focused and lighter in style.

Traditions from the region’s cucina povera or “poor cuisine” still hold sway and locally harvested field greens run riot in many of the local dishes. Orechiette with rape—or broccoli rabe—is one of my first, and best, food memories from the region and the dish still reigns supreme.