The waiter delivers our bottle of chilled Grillo with aplomb. We sip slowly, gazing at the caramel- and vanilla-colored canyons of an abandoned-quarry-turned-upscale-hotel. And then he reappears, serving caprese salad, bruschetta with various olive tapenades and warmed spicy chips.

"No, no," we say, "We didn't order these." "Madam," he replies, "they come with the wine." Of course they do. In the Egadi Islands, such unexpected delights are part of the terrain.

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