In a place with as much history as Italy, it’s common to encounter firsts, whether it’s the first bank, the oldest university or even the first espresso machine. In Bassano del Grappa, about 20 miles from Vicenza at the base of the Monte Grappa hills, you’ll find the first grappa distillery. Farmers had long made stronger alcohol out of grape pomace once they’d used the grape juice for wine.

They would sell it door to door, but one salesman, Bortolo Nardini, planted permanent roots here in 1779. He called it Aquavite di Vinaccia, which meant both “water of life” and “water of the vine.” This “water of life” is what drew me to Bassano del Grappa one very hot day in July. After years of working in Italian restaurants in the U.S., I was familiar with grappa but didn’t love it.