Ask an Italian what he or she thinks of Portofino, and he or she will probably tell you that it is at its best off-season, when the throngs of VIPs and paparazzi give way to days of calm and pale sunshine.  If you just can't resist the allure of this international enclave, that since the 1950s has gone from fishing hamlet to mecca of luxury stores and exclusive weddings, then you might as well visit with expert advice.

Being captivated by the colorful little houses in the piazzetta is as easy as falling into a tourist trap, which is why we put together a little guide to Portofino and the surrounding area from a more local point of view.