Carefully tucked away in an envelope with my mother’s belongings is a photo of her as a young woman. She is leaning against a terrace. Behind her, the sun is setting over the azure waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea, its fiery glow illuminating Santa Maria dell’Isola, a fairytale-like church perched on a rocky promontory. Growing up, I would sit and stare at this picture, fascinated by the view and by the rare glimpse it provided into my mother’s past. 

It’s the beginning of summer and the clifftop town of Tropea is abuzz with locals gathered along its atmospheric streets. A mix of architectural styles pay homage to past empires - Arabs, Normans, Byzantines and Bourbons have all left their collective influence. I spot an empty chair and take my place amid the old palaces that once housed Italy’s noble families, now an inspiring backdrop for alfresco dining.