Welcome to Umbria, the “green center” of Italy — home to St. Francis’ stunning Assisi, the university (and chocolate capital) town of Perugia, swaths of alluring forests where wild truffles hide, and the world-famous wines of Montefalco. But there is yet another treasure within the borders of Umbria, a vibrant town brimming with history, art, and a whole lot more…the hilltop town of Spoleto.

It’s tempting, but I will not employ the over-used “hidden gem” to introduce Spoleto, even if the descriptor fits. Perhaps not so much hidden but more overlooked as tour buses carry the masses to Assisi, with perhaps a few hours allotted to Orvieto or Perugia; there’s simply no time for Spoleto. That’s not necessarily a bad thing for this city steeped in history, a place that has mightily held its own, even repulsing Hannibal’s attempt eons ago to breach the walls.