I’ve spent many months in Italy over the years, absorbing its history and beauty. I have even written guidebooks about the Amalfi Coast and Rome. My husband and I decided to return to Italy’s quiet "green heart," the region of Umbria, a couple of hours drive from Rome. We hoped to recharge and do what Italians are known for: "dolce far niente' – the art of doing nothing.

We would walk the hills, savor fresh food, feel our surroundings. 'Slow travel' developed from the 'slow food" movement promoted in the center of Italy in the past mid-century. With that in mind we chose to stay a week in quiet, lovely Spello, a hill town considered one of the prettiest in the country.