John Gambino is the constant gardener of Il Giardino, which has sprouted where Petulant Wino once poured. You’ll quickly identify the vintage house by the wine barrels outside. They’ve been turned into signage that spells “bistro.” Before Petulant Wino uncorked here, this was the address of the short-lived Comtesse Thérèse Bistro.
Gambino, formerly a decades-long partner in Baby Moon in Westhampton Beach, has headed to the North Fork along with William Londono, who was chef there. Their new spot, in the handsomely appointed, 1830 building, emphasizes familiar southern Italian and Italian-American favorites, prepared with care and occasional flair.
