In the Neapolitan street of San Gregorio Armeno, shelves overflow with nativity figurines, craftsmen work in small workshops, and crowds move slowly between stalls all year round, not only at Christmas. This is where presepe became “the” presepe we all know: the one with colorful statuettes, homes, lights, and, sometimes, extemporaneous elements that have little to do with faith and more about family traditions and habits.
For most of us, San Gregorio Armeno is just this, “the street of the presepe,” a place where Christmas seems to last all year, yet the story of this alley is far older and more layered than its seasonal image may suggest. It begins in the ancient city of Neapolis, passes through medieval monasteries, the Baroque culture of the Neapolitan presepe, and continues today as artisans bring together heritage, creativity, and yes, the pressures of tourism.
