September in Italy means figs. Not the big early fioroni you see in June, but the later crop that ripens between late August and the first cool weeks of fall. These are the fichi settembrini: smaller and denser, with concentrated sweetness and a thinner skin, they are known for how versatile they are in the kitchen.
They arrive just as the grape harvest starts, so markets fill with crates of dark and pale green figs, and bunches of grapes, the first colorful sign the fall is almost here. Needless to say, they make their way into our pantries, too.
