Sicily’s landscapes are a mix of dreamy coastline, rugged peaks and rolling hills that are every bit as spectacular as those in Tuscany. But in the far west of the Mediterranean’s largest island, amid the undulating landscape of the Belice Valley, lie two hillsides that could never be mistaken for Tuscany. On one stand columns and walls that, from a distance, could be Greek or Roman remains, but up close become recognizable as the ruins of more modern buildings.
The next hill over, meanwhile, is the color of concrete. It’s not an experimental crop growing there — get closer and you see there’s nothing swaying in the breeze. Closer still, you realize that this is because it is literally concrete, poured over the hillside in a polygon shape — a gray blanket swaddling the green.