Zoagli is a small village on the Ligurian Riviera of Levante, situated between Rapallo and Chiavari in the Gulf of Tigullio. It is appreciated for its cliffs overlooking the sea and its mule tracks, which offer particularly scenic routes.

The village’s significance is tied to the history and tradition of its craftsmanship, which over the centuries has made its silk industry known worldwide, especially for the manual production of velvets.

Legend traces the ancient tradition of velvet weaving in Zoagli back to the early 12th century, suggesting that the returning crusaders from the First Crusade brought this ancient Eastern art to the Ligurian coast. This tradition was further strengthened in the late Middle Ages when Genoa became the global capital of textile production, officially recognized in 1432 with the creation of the Silk Art Guild. Large ships would arrive at the port of the Republic of Genoa, carrying this precious commodity for trade with royal palaces, villas, and mansions across Europe.

When Zoagli was annexed to the Republic of Genoa in the 15^th century, it began its valuable velvet production, creating important works known for their extraordinary technical skill, recognized worldwide. Clothing was considered an important symbol, showcasing one's social class, and the production extended not only to garments but also to the furnishings of noble families' homes, adorning the salons of kings and princes, including Henry VIII. So much so that the Republic of Genoa was forced to pass specific laws to curb the excessive luxury, which led to the spread of smooth black velvet, sometimes enhanced with golden decorations or embroidery and lace to make the fabric even more lustrous.

The spinning process took place using ancient wooden looms, some of which still exist in the working silk factories in Zoagli. The processing times were long, from dyeing to the preparation of bobbins, from the warping of the loom to weaving, producing magnificent designs with lush colors to enhance the dresses of ladies or the furnishings of noble villas or palaces. There were primarily two types of velvet: smooth velvet, which highlighted the density of the pile and the brilliance of the colors, and carved velvet, made in one or more colors. As fashion evolved, new fabrics were introduced, including damasks, which were created using silk threads to showcase a contrasting design of shiny and matte surfaces through a satin weaving technique, a fine and shiny fabric. The result was beautifully crafted stylized or floral designs.

Other characteristic and precious fabrics include lampassi, of very ancient origin, with neoclassical motifs such as grotesque figures paired with floral or animal compositions, and ormesino, a lightweight silk fabric used especially for garments and veils.

In the 16^th century, linear velvet predominated, in the 19^th century, floral patterns became more common, and by the 20^th century, geometric Deco designs appeared. Alongside the precious and refined silk threads, gold or silver threads were added to make garments more luxurious for any event or ceremony.

Among the most renowned silk manufacturers is the Cordani family, which has been handcrafting smooth velvet on ancient wooden looms since 1849, dressing figures such as J.F. Kennedy. Another artisanal workshop is that of the Gaggioli family, which produces delicate damasks and velvets with wonderful chromatic effects using their handlooms. These velvets are soft and combine refined taste with meticulous technique. The art of damask, velvet, and silk is an important and valuable tradition for the town of Zoagli and beyond.

The highest quality fabrics can be admired in the showrooms of historic factories that keep this prestigious tradition alive, housed in beautiful villas overlooking the Ligurian Gulf, with gardens plunging down to the sea and the intense scent of flowers. It is possible to visit the workshops of some companies and watch master weavers at work, who, preserving the legacy and secrets of their predecessors, still use 19^th-century wooden looms, kept alive by the passion and foresight of many generations of entrepreneurs. Thanks to this perseverance, velvets almost identical to those of the past are still produced today.