It’s no secret that most of the action in New York’s restaurant scene is happening in the middle. Some of the city’s most exciting new and upcoming restaurants this fall and winter serve tweaked tuna casserole, gussied-up grilled pizza, and Korean flatbread sandwiches. By contrast, Jonathan Benno’s latest, eponymous restaurant in the Evelyn Hotel is unabashedly high-end.

Opening tomorrow, Benno completes the chef’s trifecta of openings in the Evelyn, following his Roman-ish trattoria Leonelli Taberna and his bakery Leonelli Focacceria e Pasticceria. Whereas the Taberna is a more casual restaurant with a burger and a warmer aesthetic, Benno looks like it could audition for a role in Billions. The design is art deco, complete with a statement light fixture, custom furniture, and lots of marble and walnut. It’s a relatively small space with 45 seats and a 10-person bar. (There’s also a 24-seat private room.)