By Michele Parente

Tracy Borkum was in a panic. "No, it's too soon!" the owner of Cucina Sorella cried out when she saw me come in to the restaurant. Borkum's long-awaited high-profile Kensington eatery had opened only a few days before, so yes, it was too soon to review it.

I assured her that I was there more as an excited civilian. The much-anticipated sorella, or sister, to the deliciously successful Cucina Urbana in Bankers Hill and Del Mar's Cucina Enoteca, was finally open! And so near my house! No worries, I told Borkum, if dinner that night wasn't great, it wouldn't be professional to write about it.

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