Casaro Osteria, the fourth eatery from Calabrian restaurateur Francesco Covucci, combines elements from his three Little Italy establishments: from Barbara Pinseria comes house-made Roman-inspired pastas; from Il Casaro Pizzeria (which also has a Castro location) comes Neapolitan pizza authentic down to its imported caputo flour and San Marzano tomatoes; and from California Fish Market, what else but seafood, in crudo form.

Like those restaurants, Casaro Osteria is a warm and welcoming place, more oversized family dinner table than high-stakes chef showcase. It’s a chameleon of a spot that will work just as well for couples out for a laid-back date night as it will for parents with picky kids or boisterous groups out for a good time.