The dining room at Baonecci, a newly opened Italian restaurant in Frisco, Texas, is molto bene right now. This San Francisco transplant has only been open a couple weeks, but the place is nearly full on this Friday night, crackling with the kind of giddy electricity that so often accompanies the opening of something new.

Walter Gambaccini, owner and host, seems to light up every time a new party enters. His son Elia, who manages the front of the house, glides from dining room to kitchen and back. Elia’s brother, Filippo, and their mother, Stefania, work back-to-back in the kitchen, stirring risotto frutti di mare and rolling out the restaurant’s signature Roman-style crackly-thin crust pizzas.