By Merrill Shindler

The meals at East Side Mario's are large — abbondanza by definition. This is the land of the Papa's Parmigiana Trio Combo (fettuccine Alfredo, lasagna al forno and chicken Parmigiana, served with a garlic "homeloaf" and unlimited amounts of minestrone, Italian wedding soup, garden salad or Caesar salad), and the linguine chicken Tetrazzini, doused with the Alfredo sauce, then topped with a mixture of "toasted" cheese.

But nothing served here compares with the Sunday buffet brunch, which at $15.99 may be the single most outlandish buffet brunch this side of Las Vegas. The brunch runs all over the restaurant, covering the bar, and the tables in the bar, and stretching into an outside tent where a series of cooks busily prepare pasta to order, along with omelets. The brunch inside is Italian (lots of antipasti), American, Mexican.

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