From buzzy spots like Grandmaster Recorders that require reservations well in advance to chefs making headlines with new restaurant openings such as Mother Wolf, it’s clear that a relatively new wave of Italian restaurants in Los Angeles is having a moment. When lauded spots like Bestia and Osteria Mozza first opened their doors, they created a buzz in the city because of their fresh takes on Italian food.

Instead of chicken parm, diners could experience a saffron gnocchi with buttermilk ricotta, or seasonal antipasti such as shell beans with sungold tomatoes and scallop crudo with rosemary chile oil and sesame. Today, a new group of chefs is turning to their roots and interpreting classic dishes in exciting ways. There are charred Tokyo-style Neapolitan pizzas and pastas infused with Indian spice mixes like garam masala and Japanese yuzu. It’s a step away from the classic red sauce, and one that diners are eagerly lining up for.