I’ve been daydreaming about a food-centric trip that includes a tour of old-school Italian diners, which are common in New Jersey. Ideally, this trip would take place in October, when the chill in the air perfectly complements the hearty fare. Think chicken and eggplant parmesan, meatball subs, and ravioli. Long Beach Island is one possible destination, known for its local joints and the original Ron Jon Surf Shop.

J.R. O’Brien, whom you might remember from my sunset column, shares my obsession with Italian food and recently recommended Spirito’s Italian Diner in Carlsbad. After sampling some of the best chicken parm and meatball subs there, I had to learn more about its backstory.