That’s me you have seen marching double-time through the streets of New York’s Little Italy, my eyes glued to the pavement, determinedly dodging the catcall invitations for free sangria and heaping bowls of pasta. So it is not surprising that I never noticed the Alleva Dairy cheese shop snuggled at the intersection of Mulberry and Grand Streets; according to friends of mine who have been visiting the shop since the ‘80s, I’d been missing out.

Nothing about Alleva Dairy is subtle: the façade screams “Ricotta,” “Mozzarella,” “Oldest Cheese Store in America,” “EST.1892,” and the windows are cloaked with neon signs. Brace yourself for sensory overload as you step into the shop and onto the lovely Italian tiled floor. Dangling legs of Prosciutto drop from the original tin ceiling and stacks of cheeses teeter on the oversized deli counters. It’s delicious chaos.