With its chummy atmosphere and eclectic decor, memories of the Bushwick original from its early days in 2008 filled my mind as I wormed my way into the Penn One complex, called the Penn District — past the Los Tacos No. 1 and a new gelato space — looking for the new Roberta’s, the first standalone in Manhattan. Technically, its two-story structure, the latest in an unusual succession of projects from Carlo Mirarchi and Brandon Hoy, has no proper street address.

Wander until you find it, off a narrow courtyard between 33rd and 34th streets. Around a corner, a barrage of Roberta’s signage promises a tiki bar, rooftop dining, and pizza by the slice, perhaps aimed at the travelers and sports fans who wander this neighborhood like lost pilgrims. On the ground floor is what looks like an everyday neighborhood pizzeria, albeit one with a wood-burning oven. Bypass it and go up a winding stairway. Painted with a garish red monster, that stairway is reminiscent of the murals of Bushwick.