There are many words to describe New York’s Little Italy; “Italian” is increasingly not one of them. Rising rents and rapid gentrification have pushed this once 30-block neighbourhood into a tiny square of the city. At last count, none of its residents was born in Italy. There is, however, at least one surprising survivor: Albanese Meats & Poultry, “the last butcher in Little Italy”.

“My whole family used to live on this block,” says Jennifer Prezioso, Albanese’s fourth owner and sole employee. Her great-grandparents – both with Sicilian ancestors – set up shop in 1923. Back then, there were seven Italian-owned butchers on the block, many known for their cut-to-order counters.