Lou Di Palo has been behind the counter at his family’s gastronomia for 72 years, but he jokes that he’s been there for 73–if you include the time his pregnant mother worked there too. 

At the corner of Grand and Mott Street in New York City’s Little Italy, with dark green awnings and wheels of Parmigiano lining the windows, Di Palo’s Fine Foods has a small sign on the front door politely informing its patrons that there are no panini here. Your ingredients–superior olive oil, fresh mozzarella, the finest prosciutto di Parma–are to be taken to go.