Turin may have been Italy’s first capital, but don’t let its buttoned-up past fool you—this city knows how to keep a few secrets. Find a mishmash of architectural gems, shaped by the lavish tastes of the Savoys and the industrial might of Fiat, and a darker side that’s held over from the city’s days as the epicenter of Italian witchcraft. From rooftop racetracks to malevolent doorways, here are 10 places you’ve never heard of in Turin that’ll have you seeing this underrated city in a whole new light.

Eclectic is the name, Casa Mollino is the game. Located inside of a 19th-century villa in Turin, this apartment/museum is the realization of Carlo Mollino’s artistic genius. Architect, designer, photographer, writer, sportsman, skier, aerobatic pilot, Mollino defies definition as much as his work defies conventionality.