If there is anything about Venice that natives and tourists agree on, it must be the fact that the city is a labyrinth. As natives, we used to often amuse ourselves, cruelly sending tourists to Sant’Elena, the very far end of the city, convinced that they will reach Punta della Dogana, at the opposite end of Bacino San Marco, where the Pinault Collection has one of its world-famous museum.

But, once out of the safety of the paths trodden day after day, it is possible even for a veteran to feel that sensation that seizes the hit-and-run visitors at every turn. Calle, campo, turn around, campiello (Alley, square…tiny square). You turn around once again to find yourself in front of four identical calli.